The Art and Science of Silk Fabric: from Ancient China to Modern Luxury Brands

The textile technology of mulberry silk is one of China's great inventions. For thousands of years, mulberry silk fabric was not only an important commodity in China's foreign trade but also a significant bridge for cultural exchange between the East and West. Before the Song Dynasty, through the Silk Road, mulberry silk Silk, as an ancient and luxurious material, encompasses far more complex and rich technological and cultural stories than we see at first glance. From its origins in China, traversing to the Western world, silk is not just a fabric; it's a cultural symbol that transcends time and space, carrying the history of humanity and the spirit of innovation.

The Multifaceted Definitions and Cultural Differences of Silk

In Chinese culture, silk primarily refers to two types of natural protein fibres: mulberry silk and tussah silk. Mulberry silk, in particular, is renowned for its superior quality and unique properties: its skin-friendly nature, temperature regulation ability, and excellent moisture-wicking and retention capabilities make it one of the most high-end fabrics globally.

In contrast, in the West, the definition of silk is broader, encompassing not only natural mulberry silk but also synthetic materials like polyester fibres, categorised as silk due to their smooth and soft texture. However, the cost difference between natural mulberry silk and synthetic silk can be as high as 10 to 20 times or even higher. Though both are called silk, they are entirely different materials. Understanding this is crucial for industry professionals and consumers.

The Cultural Status of Silk in the East and West

Silk fabrics and products were transported through Central Asia and the Middle East to the Mediterranean, and then to Europe. After the Song Dynasty, with the opening of maritime trade, mulberry silk fabrics and products spread globally. To this day, mulberry silk remains one of the highest-end fabrics worldwide. China is still the largest producer of mulberry silk fabric, offering the best value, largest capacity, and highest quality globally.

Cantonese silk with embroidery, Qing Dynasty

*Canton is a province in southern China and is the largest export port in China.

The Symbol of Luxury in the West

In Western history, mulberry silk fabric was a symbol of luxury, coveted by royal families. The most famous instance is French King Louis XIV, who strongly supported the silk industry in the late 17th century. His finance minister, Jean-Baptiste Colbert, particularly promoted the industry to reduce dependence on silk from regions like Italy and promote domestic production. Louis XIV also enacted a series of decrees and policies to protect and encourage domestic silk production, including mandating that nobility and court members' clothing must use silk produced in France. To this day, Lyon remains Europe's mulberry silk production base.

Louis XIV Era, silk, Jacquard and Embroidery

The Material of Silk

Among the types of silk, mulberry silk is the most high-end. The essence of mulberry silk is protein, featuring natural skin-friendly properties, temperature regulation, and moisture-wicking and retention abilities. It prevents allergies and overheating or overcooling. Mulberry silk's specifications, especially in scarf production, range from 12 momme to 19 momme, where momme is the unit of measurement for silk weight. Top-grade mulberry silk fabric features high luster and uniform texture, without snags or knots, making it the first choice for luxury brands.

To reduce costs, some people use tussah silk as fabric. Tussah silk, produced by silkworms that consume oak leaves, lacks the luster of mulberry silk and is usually slightly yellow-green, not as soft as mulberry silk. In China, tussah silk is commonly used for silk quilts or fillings.

Rayon or Tencel, extracted from plants, offers a soft and shiny fibre, making the resulting fabric bright and soft with eco-friendly characteristics. Polyester fibre, often mistaken for satin, is a more affordable option. However, this is inaccurate because satin is a weaving technique, whereas polyester fibre is the essence of such materials. The cost of high-quality polyester silk fabric can be three times or more than that of low-quality polyester fibre.

Silk Weaving Techniques: Satin, Twill, and Crepe

Satin: a fabric constructed from warp and weft threads that are individually, continuously, and evenly interlaced through organisational points, with these points being covered by the floating length of another system of threads.

Satin weaving structure

This structure gives the fabric its lustrous and soft satin effect. Therefore, both mulberry silk and polyester fibre can be woven into satin fabric. It's worth noting that high-quality polyester satin's gloss and softness can approach that of mulberry silk because the fibres of superior polyester are extremely fine, with a high number of threads in both warp and weft directions and tightly arranged, resulting in excellent light reflection. If the polyester fibres are coarse, with fewer thread bundles and more sparse arrangement in both directions, the fabric will appear crude and have a low-quality, plastic feel.

Mulberry silk, satin crepe

High quality polyester, satin

Medium quality polyester, satin

Twill: Fabric with diagonally arranged warp and weft threads, creating a pattern of diagonal rib lines on the surface. Twill fabric has a more understated luster than satin, chosen by luxury brands for silk scarves because it's more durable, suitable for printing beautiful patterns, and less prone to wrinkles and snags.

Twill weaving structure

Mulberry silk, twill 

Crepe: Utilises varying lengths of warp and weft threads in the fabric structure, arranged randomly, giving the fabric surface dispersed, subtly textured, small granules. Chiffon and georgette are examples of crepe weave. Luxury brands also choose lightweight crepe fabrics for various products, such as chiffon scarves, beach dresses, and clothing.

Crepe weaving structure

Mulberry silk, georgette

How to Choose the Right Silk According to Market Demand

High-end domestic brands and major global brands mainly choose twill, chiffon, and georgette fabrics for silk scarves, and a broader selection for clothing, always opting for high-specification mulberry silk fabrics.

Identifying the Market Position and Choosing the Suitable Fabric

Many entrepreneurs struggle to differentiate between types of silk, facing a potential cost gap of 10-20 times. My advice is to first identify the consumer segment you're targeting, whether they prefer polyester fibre, eco-friendly fabric fibres, or mulberry silk. Within polyester fibres, is there a preference for mid-to-high-end or low-end options? In mulberry silk, is there a need for mass-market silk (thinner, with some imperfections) or high-end silk? Entrepreneurs should clearly understand their target consumers' needs when choosing silk fabrics. Whether they seek the luxury of natural mulberry silk or favour cost-effective synthetic silk, discussing and finding a fabric solution that meets cost, quality, and design needs with suppliers is crucial.

A good mulberry silk product supplier should not only understand silk fabrics but also printing techniques, sewing craftsmanship, handcraft skills, and design knowledge, which I will introduce in subsequent articles.

Conclusion

From the ancient Silk Road of China to the modern high-end fashion industry, the journey of silk fabric is diverse and rich. By deeply understanding the types of silk, crafting technologies, and how to make wise choices based on market demand, brands and designers can better utilise this ancient and luxurious material to create products that meet consumer needs and carry cultural value.